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Throughout the meal, the band upstairs repeatedly swells in and fades out while unknowingly soundtracking a discussion that, like the series itself, is equal parts hilarious and sharply existential. A truly wild pursuit on the road between a struggling contractor Danny Cho (Yeun) and a self-made entrepreneur with a seemingly picture-perfect life, Amy Lau (Wong), turns into a feud that escalates and begins to unravel their lives and relationships. While the show’s title is Beef, this is decidedly not a show about food. Lee’s creation is about the other type of beef, as it follows the aftermath of a road rage incident between two strangers. But like the dangerously good smorgasbord of food we sample across our hour-plus conversation-brisket, ribs, hot links, macaroni and cheese, waffle fries, ranch style beans, fried pickle spears, red snapper ceviche, and braised collards all compete for table space-the topics we end up covering are as varied as they are deeply satiating. We’re here to talk about Beef, the creator and showrunner’s remarkably perceptive new series starring Steven Yeun and Ali Wong, both of whom have also agreed to join me for a weighs-you-down-in-the-best-way late breakfast/early lunch at Austin hotspot Lamberts.
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To be fair, we are sitting in a barbecue restaurant in Texas as a vaguely Explosions in the Sky-esque band rumbles with a cinematic sense of dynamics upstairs. Lee Sung Jin feels like he’s in an episode of Friday Night Lights.
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